Well, after taking a CEH course at night, I have decided that I need to figure out a mechanism to protect my network from intruders. This is more of an exercise for me to apply some of the things that I have learned in the class. I have a number of different VLANs in the house, some pretty benign and some not so much (like access to TOR, etc.). Any one of these could lead to compromises in the network so I would like to re-evaluate what I am doing and make changes as necessary. I will be taking the CEH cert test in the next couple of weeks and that will free up time for me to become more involved in this process.
One specific thing that I would like to try is separation of connections from known or unknown entities to a special VLAN for that purpose. I want to separate out all of the internal networks from being compromised. In addition, I would like to put up an intrusion detection system for the existing networks and go about looking for unusual traffic patterns. Of course, one of the quirks about my setup is that I have everything going through an ActionTec router which can be almost a sieve without proper configuration. Updates to the firmware do not appear to be forthcoming and Verizon is insistent on my spending another $100 to get their "improved" ActionTec router just so I can get gigabit Ethernet to my other router connections.
One of the first things that I think I will try is to make all of the connections from the ActionTec router to be on separate VLANs. There really is no need for me to have everything on the same subnet and the router does have the ability to have completely separate VLANs from it.
This is a blog mostly about techie things, what I am doing to my apartment network on the cheap, IOT, 3D Printing, Raspberry Pis, Arduinos, ESP32, ESP8266, Home Automation, Personal Weather Stations, Things That Go Bump in the Night, and some side issues that need discussing. Remember, sometimes the journey to an end is as much fun as the goal achieved!
Thursday, May 15, 2014
Monday, May 12, 2014
Portable Pi Project - Part #2
Well work activities, dealing with CEH training and the cert test in two weeks, and other things has prevented me from really stepping up to the plate on the RPi Portable idea. But to get back to the overall plan on this, I have looked at the power through the system. The portable looks like the following (not updated from last time):
I have looked at the power lead outs and it looks like a DPDT toggle switch and one 14 position terminal block (I have a 12 position which will have to do) will be able to suit my needs to power everything from either the wall wart or via the battery which is encased with the RPi Portable. The DPDT will be able to choose the 1.0 amp or 2.1 amp lines from either the wall wart or the battery, and if it has a center off, will be able to act as an on-off switch as well. What I will need to do is cut up some perfectly good USB cables to make this work. The cables will end up having a USB plug on one end, and pigtail leads at the other. I just have to make sure that the data leads are not used in the setup. So the power circuit should look like the following diagram:
Notice that I have pulled the power out to the board sides for the wall wart. I have also included a power out to the side for charging the battery. In addition, I have added a board (breadboard) connection so that I can do experiments with this setup as well. All of the internal connections, except for the DPDT switch can be done with cut USB cables. It also only requires a 12 position terminal strip. The high side (2.1 amp connection) goes to the hub and breadboard. The low side (1.0 amp connection) goes to the RPi and LCD screen. All grounds are tied together. Black lines are ground and red lines are 5 volt power lines.
I have looked at the power lead outs and it looks like a DPDT toggle switch and one 14 position terminal block (I have a 12 position which will have to do) will be able to suit my needs to power everything from either the wall wart or via the battery which is encased with the RPi Portable. The DPDT will be able to choose the 1.0 amp or 2.1 amp lines from either the wall wart or the battery, and if it has a center off, will be able to act as an on-off switch as well. What I will need to do is cut up some perfectly good USB cables to make this work. The cables will end up having a USB plug on one end, and pigtail leads at the other. I just have to make sure that the data leads are not used in the setup. So the power circuit should look like the following diagram:
Notice that I have pulled the power out to the board sides for the wall wart. I have also included a power out to the side for charging the battery. In addition, I have added a board (breadboard) connection so that I can do experiments with this setup as well. All of the internal connections, except for the DPDT switch can be done with cut USB cables. It also only requires a 12 position terminal strip. The high side (2.1 amp connection) goes to the hub and breadboard. The low side (1.0 amp connection) goes to the RPi and LCD screen. All grounds are tied together. Black lines are ground and red lines are 5 volt power lines.
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